|
Khajuraho-Attractions
THE
TEMPLES
 The
architectural style of the Khajuraho temples is very different from
the temple prototype of that period. Each stands, instead of within
the customary enclosure, on a high masonry platform. Combined with
the upward direction of the structure, which is further accentuated
by vertical projections, the total effect is one of grace and
lightness, reminiscent of the Himalayan peaks. Each of the chief
compartments has its own roof, grouped in such a way that the
highest is in the centre, the lowest over the portico, a triumph of
skill and imagination in recreating the rising peaks of a range.
The
temples of Khajuraho are divided into three geographical groups :
Western, Eastern and Southern. The Western group is
certainly the best known, because it is to this group that the
largest and most typical Khajuraho temple belongs : the
Kandariya Mahadev. Perfectly symmetrical, it soars 31 km high.
Though the four temples that stand at the corners of the main shrine
are now in ruins, the main shrine has an exquisitely carved entrance
arch with a multitude of themes. Celestial beings, lovers serenading
musicians . . . movements captured in stone, frozen in time, yet
retaining a quality of warm, pulsating life. The very stone seems to
have taken on the living, breathing quality of the carved figures.
Beyond
the archway of the Kandariya Mahadev, lie the six interior
compartments; the portico, main hall, transept, vestibule, sanctum
and ambulatory. The ceilings are particularly noteworthy and the
pillars supporting them have intricately carved capitals. The
transept's outer walls have three horizontal panels showing deities
of the Hindu pantheon, and groups of lovers, a pageant of
sensuousness, vibrantly alive.
Also in
the western group is the Chaunsat Yogini, the only granite
temple in the Khajuraho group. Dedicated to Kali, it is also unique
in being quadrangular in plan. Only 35 of the original 65 cells
remain and no image of Kali has survived : not surprisingly, since
this is the earliest surviving shrine of the group dated to 900 AD.
Another Kali Temple (originally dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi
Jagadambe Temple.
 North
of it facing eastward to the rising sun, is the Chitragupta
temple, dedicated to the sun-god, Surya. The image of this
powerful deity in the inner sanctum is particularly imposing : 5ft
high, and driving a seven-horsed chariot. The group scenes depicted
are equally spectacular: royal processions, elephant-fights, hunting
scenes, group dances. The lavish lifestyle of the Chandela kings and
their court is here in all its pomp and glory. Similar in plan to
the Kandariya Mahadev is the Vishwanath Temple. Lions flank
the northern steps and elephants the southern, leading up to the
temple. Within, there is an impressive three headed image of Brahma.
The exteriors are profusely carved, and facing the shrine is a
Nandi Temple with a massive, 6 ft high Nandi bull.
Since
the first few Chandela rulers were devotees of Vishnu, there are
some important Vaishnavite temples in the Khajuraho group, the
finest of which is the Lakshmana Temple. The lintel over the
entrance shows the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, with Lakshmi,
Vishnu's consort. The sanctum is richly carved and has a
three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations, Narsimha and Varaha.
The boar incarnation also appears in another Vaishnavite shrine, the
Varaha Temple. The statue here is a mammoth 9 ft high one,
its surface covered with figures from the Hindu Pantheon.
 The
Khajuraho temples are no longer living places of worship, with a few
exceptions. The Matangeswara Temple for example is still a
place of worship. Dedicated to Shiva it has an 8 ft high lingam.
South of this temple is the open air Archaeological Museum,
which has a beautiful displayed collection of statues and friezes
collected from the area : the remains of long vanished temples
Hindu
and Jain temples make up the Eastern Group, which lies close to the
Khajuraho village. The largest Jain temple, Parswanath, is in
this group. Exquisite in detail, the sculptures on the northern
outer wall make this temple perhaps the finest in the group. The
themes of these carvings are the timeless ones of every day, mortal
activity. A woman sits bent pensively on a letter, a lovely young
girl removes a thorn from her foot, the master craftsmen of
Khajuraho display here their deep understanding of the trifles that
make up a human life. Within, the sanctum has a throne, which faces
a bull : emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The actual image
of Parswanath from which the temple derives its name was installed
as recently as 1860.
The
other Jain temple in this group is the Ghantai Temple. Though
almost in ruins now, it still bears evidence of its original
splendour. Particularly, arresting is the frieze which depicts, in
graphic detail, the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed
Jain goddess riding on a winged Garuda. North of Parswanatha is the
more modestly sized Adinatha Temple.
The
three Hindu temples in the Eastern Group are the Brahma,
Vamana and Javari Temples. A double row of apsaras,
celestial nymphs, adorn the outer walls of the Vamana temple. A
variety of sensuous attitudes : languid, provocative, mischievously
inviting, give credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's erotica
were meant to test the devotees who came to worship their gods at
the temples.
5 km from the Khajuraho village, lies the Southern Group of temples.
The fine Chaturbhuj Temple in this group has a massive
intricately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum. Duladeo Temple,
another of the southern group, is a little away from the road to the
Jain group of temples.
 Though
remains of temples belonging to the Khajuraho group have been
discovered at Jatkari, 3 km away and even at Maribag in Rewa, it is
at the 3 main groups that the imperishable glory of Khajuraho, the
sensuous celebration of life, the aspiration towards the infinite,
remains.
Home
||
E-mail ||
Contact us
|| Profile
|| Site Map
|